🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.